When
I just started studying cosmetic formulation, I initially thought that squalene
and squalane are basically just the same cosmetic ingredient. To my
surprise, they are actually two different raw materials. So to clear some
confusions (especially among beginner cosmetic formulators), I will breakdown
the similarities and differences between squalene and squalane in
terms of properties, functions, benefits and chemical composition.
The
Tale of Squalene and Squalane
Squalene has been a staple in skincare for its
moisturizing properties. It was first discovered in the early 1900s by a
chemist named Dr. Mitsumaro Tsujimoto. He was able to extract this
precious oil from the livers of deep-sea sharks who belong to the Squalidae
family (from which the name squalene was derived). However, due to
sustainability and ethical concerns (since it’s sourced from sharks), it’s now
primarily sourced from plants that contain squalene like olives and rice bran.
There is one major downside to using squalene in formulation – it oxidizes
(goes rancid) quickly when exposed to air, making it unstable and has shorter
shelf life.
Because
of those limitations, a hydrogenated version of squalene was developed and it’s
called Squalane. The hydrogenation process makes squalane more
stable (less prone to oxidation) and has longer shelf life (up to 2 years) than
squalene, making it more suitable in cosmetic formulations.
A
Peek into their Chemical Structures
Chemically
speaking, squalene is a polyunsaturated hydrocarbon and has 6 double
bonds which contribute to its stability issues. Meanwhile, squalane is a
saturated hydrocarbon with no double bonds. This saturation is what makes squalane
more stable and less prone to oxidation than squalene.
Functions
and Properties
In
terms of functions and properties, squalene and squalane are
basically just the same. They are both great emollient (skin moisturizer) and
can effectively reduce TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Unlike most
plant-based oils, they have fast skin absorption rate and light skin feel. Both
also have good skin biocompatibility since squalene is a lipid that is
naturally present in our skin’s sebum.
Formulating
with Squalene and Squalane
When
formulating cosmetics, both squalene and squalane are versatile because they
are compatible with many ingredients. However, due to squalene’s instability,
it’s often used at lower concentrations or replaced with squalane. For the
squalane, the ideal usage rate is at least 10%. Squalane can be used at a
higher concentration but take note that it will make your formulation very
expensive! Since they are lipophilic (oil soluble), they should be added to the
oil phase of the formulation.
Squalene
and squalane are recommended lipids for formulating facial moisturizer with
light skin feel, which is especially suited to people with oily, acne-prone
skin.
Conclusion
Understanding the difference between squalene and squalane enables us to harness their unique properties in skincare formulation. Personally, I prefer using squalane due to its stability making it a more reliable ingredient in various formulations. It’s also important to opt for plant-based squalene or squalane because it is a sustainable and ethical choice. Remember, effective skincare is not just about following trends, but making informed and conscious choices when it comes to selecting cosmetic ingredients.
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