As
a person with an extremely oily and acne prone skin, I always make sure that
the facial products I apply on my skin are using an “oil-free” formulation. It
is because I don’t want to apply something that can exacerbate my oily skin
which could lead to clogged pores and acnes.
With
so many cosmetic products in the market labeled as “oil-free”, how can we
verify the legitimacy of their claims? Unfortunately, there is no standard
definition for the term “oil-free” in the cosmetic industry. It means that the
cosmetic companies can have their own definition of “oil-free” formulation.
For
this article, we’re going to discuss the common definition of “oil-free” formulation
being used by most cosmetic companies. Basically, “oil-free” cosmetic
formulation must not contain
- Plant-derived oils
- Animal-derived fats and oils
- Mineral oil (petroleum-derived)
Some
cosmetic companies can even exclude other ingredients that possess
similar properties with oil which is both hydrophobic (hates water) and lipophilic
(oil-loving). In other words, any emollient (whether it’s derived from oil or
not) can be excluded from an “oil-free” formulation if it is both oil
soluble and water insoluble.
Examples
of ingredients that satisfy those criteria are:
- Hydrocarbons (e.g. isododecane, squalane)
- Esters (e.g. isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
- Triglycerides (e.g. caprylic/capric triglycerides)
- Fatty alcohols (e.g. cetyl alcohol)
WHAT
EMOLLIENTS SHOULD I USE IN OIL-FREE FORMULATION?
Most
“oil-free” cosmetic products available in the market are based on silicones.
Silicones are not considered as oils because they are not lipophilic so it can
be used as emollient in “oil-free” skin care products.
Examples
of commonly used silicones in “oil-free” formulation are:
- Dimethicone
- Cyclomethicone
If
you don’t want to use silicones but still want an “oil-free” formulation, then
you can try to create a water-based gel moisturizer using Siligel in combination with a humectant like Propanediol 1,3. Siligel is a natural gelling agent that adds a silicone-like skin feel
to a skin care formula. It also has moisturizing properties that’s why it is a great
alternative to silicones for a “silicone-free AND oil-free” formulation.
CAN
I ADD FRAGRANCE OILS AND BOTANICAL EXTRACTS?
Yes,
you can add botanical extracts to an “oil-free” cosmetic product. However, it
is recommended to use water-soluble botanical extracts and active
ingredients in an “oil-free” formulation. If the botanical extract has water
and glycerin as solvent, then it is a water-soluble extract.
If
you really want your formula to be strictly “oil-free”, then leave out
essential oils and fragrance oils. Instead, you can use hydrosols (aromatic
waters) to add a subtle scent to your “oil-free” cosmetic products.
References:
Alexander, K. and Baki, G. (2015).
Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and
Technology (1st ed.). Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
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